A Norwegian's Travel Guide to Norway
Norway for most people conjures images of dramatic Fjords and Mother Nature showing off. A land where the sun never sets (or never rises, depending on what time of year you’re there) and the northern lights illuminate the softly contoured landscape north of the arctic circle.
First off, I feel a small disclaimer is in order. I am Norwegian. As such I see the country through a very particular lens which prevents me from ever fully understanding what it will be like to see it for the first time. The other side of that coin is of course that I know the place rather well, and can speak with confidence on a number of things that may be of interest to someone visiting.
Norway's main cities of Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim, while steeped in history and full of cozy cafes and museums, offer a more relaxed atmosphere than most European capitals with much less hustle and bustle. Needless to say however, to anyone that has performed even a rudimentary google search about Norway at least, is that its cities are not Norways main attraction. It is a country endowed with the most stunning landscape, with fjords and valleys carved out by the enormous glaciers that towered over the landscape during the last ice age, not only altering its geography, but also establishing the conditions that would shape the culture and identity of the people inhabiting it. This is the bit I will focus on for the purposes of this article, leaving discussion of its charming cities to a later time.
A Short History
Don't worry this will indeed be short, but I feel some background is important to understand the mindset of the modern Norwegian. Feel free to skip right past this section if you're just after the top travel destinations the country has to offer.
Though fascinating, we’ll skip over the early days of the country’s settlement and the famed Viking age as that deserves a much longer article and is sort of outside the scope here. Following the Black Death which hit Norwegian shores in 1349, killing 2/3 of the country’s population within the first year alone, with subsequent plagues further halving the population by 1400, the impoverished state entered into the Kalmar Union alongside the Kingdoms of Sweden and Denmark (which at the time included Iceland and much of what today is Finland). This Union lasted with a few short interruptions up until 1523 when Sweden crowned Gustav Vasa as king and effectively pulled the country out of the Union.
In 1536/7 Denmark unilaterally declared Norway a Danish province. This never happened, however, Norway instead becoming a hereditary monarchy and entering into a Union with Denmark under the Oldenburg dynasty for close to 3 centuries up until 1814. On the 17th of May that year, Norway's constitution was signed at Eidsvoll, declaring Norway an Indian kingdom in an attempt to avoid being ceded to Sweden after Denmarks defeat in the Napoleonic wars on which they fought on Napoleons side.
The Union with Sweden did however materialise and it wasn’t until 1905 that it dissolved and Prince Carl of Denmark (giving name to Oslo’s main street, Karl Johans gate) was chosen to be King of the newly independent Norway.
Romantic Nationalism
In the process of a becoming a fully independent nation, Norway was swept up in a very prominent wave of romantic nationalism, which particularly in the period of 1840 to 1867 sought to promote the aesthetics of Norwegian nature and the uniqueness of Norwegian national identity through art and poetry. Driven largely by nostalgia, this movement caught on in the public imagination, and to some extent, I believe, never truly let go. Displays of this lingering romanticism can perhaps be most vividly seen in the colourful parades during the annual celebration of the 17th of May (constitution day), when hoards of Norwegians dress up in the traditional regional costumes called Bunad, a practice that even a hundred years ago would have been unthinkable.
Norwegians are proud. Not only of their independence and the abundance of natural beauty, but more recently also of the welfare state they have been able to create. Since the discovery of oil in the North Sea late 50’s and 60’s, Norway has been able to boost its economy to a point where it now has the world's biggest sovereign wealth fund, owning more assets than China’s equivalent China Investment Coorporation (as of 2021 data). Not bad for a nation of 5.4 million people. Also, Norwegians are on the whole unapologetically proud of their exploits in polar explorations and their dominance in the world of winter sports. A common saying states that Norwegians are born with skis on their feet, which if you’ve spent any amount of time in Nordmarka, a forest area north of Oslo with ample cross country ski routes, is not too far from the truth. You wouldn't have to wait very long to see with even the smallest children zooming across the landscape.
Though I cannot claim to be unbiased here, I must say that some of the sense of pride Norwegians share with regards to their country is justifiable, if at times a bit much. It is certainly an attitude that becomes immediately apparent once you spend any time discussing the country with a Norwegian. As with any nationalism, it's easy to become narrow minded however, and as anywhere, Norwegians are not immune. Given the relative wealth of the nation however, many are well travelled and avoid the worst of this mindset.
There is of course loads more to go in to, including how a desire to revert the language to something truly authentic and altogether less Danish resulted in Nynorsk (new Norwegian) by combining traits from multiple regional dialects. For all those who wish to delve deeper into all things Norwegian however I can recommend the following excellent articles:
Where to go in Norway and what to do
As with anything this will depend a lot on your budget and available time. The budget bit may be particularly important in this case as Norway is famously expensive. While there are ways to keep a trip there moderately budget friendly, the high costs of more or less everything is something to be aware of so as to not be caught by surprise. A quick reference point which is a pint of beer, which normally would set you back around 95 NOK or about USD 9.60 (GBP 7.80 / EUR 8.85) at the time of writing.
Though its main cities are definitely worth a visit, the main attraction is of course the dramatic nature, with deep fjords, lofty mountain passes and, if you're lucky, northern lights. Getting the most out of what admittedly is a large and geographically spread out country can be difficult, but fret not, there are some fantastic options out there for a range of budgets.
Hurtigruten
The Norwegian Coastal Express began operations in 1893, and while initially intended to improve communications along Norways long and jagged coastline, it now also provides visitors with fantastic access to places that would be entirely inaccessible by other modes of transport.
Photo by Elwin de Witte on Unsplash
The route goes between Bergen on the southern end of Norways west coast to Kirkenes in the far north, and vice versa. From experience, both having taken this particular cruise myself, and from my time in the Norwegian coast guard, patrolling the northern half of the country and the Barents sea, I can wholeheartedly recommend traveling from North to South. The Geography in the northern part of the country, while striking in its own right, lacks the tall mountains and shear drama of that can be found once you come down south of Trondheim. Both directions of course offer dramatic views, but I'd recommend saving the best for last.
Stopping at 34 coastal communities of various sizes, and though some of these stops are at night, you're in for a treat. Though bear in mind, this is not the budget option.
For more info you can follow this link to Hurtigrutens website.
Bergensbanen
Described by some as Europe's most beautiful train journey, the rail line from Oslo to Bergen crosses some of the most inhospitable terrain imaginable, climbing as high as 1,237m above sea level and carving its path 308 miles along, and indeed through mountains made up of seemingly impenetrable gneiss rock.
Connecting Norways two most important cities, the trip takes about six and a half hours, clinging to the coast of dramatic fjords, passing by tumbling water falls and green forests, not to mention the often snowy plateaus and alpine conditions to be found at near its highest stop of Finse.
Compared to many attractions in Norway, the cost of a one way ticket can be had as low as 299 NOK (though this depends on season and off peak travel times) and can be purchased up to 90 days in advance on the official Vy website.
Northern Lights
Now this is a tricky one. Being a natural phenomena it is both fleeting, unpredictable and quite frankly, never quite as vivid as the long exposure photos seen on the internet would suggest. That's not to say it isn't worth the effort, and everyone I've spoken to who have taken the journey up past the arctic circle to look for the Aurora (and managed to see it) have not even remotely regretted it.
Photo by Lightscape on Unsplash
Despite the uncertainties involved, and the need to temper any expectations, there are some steps you can take to optimise your chances:
- First off, and this one is kind of self explanatory, you will want to go looking for Northern lights during night time. Being mostly found North of the arctic circle, this means the best times would be between November and February, which is generally considered "peak season" for the simple fact that the nights are longest. Depending on how far North you go, the sun virtually never rises and you merely have a few hours of dusk before the night sets in again. You will still have a shot however as early as September and as late as March, with march probably offering clearer skies.
- Location matters, and becomes a balancing act between there being anything else to do and optimising your chances for Northern Lights. The following are some of the most favourable locations for the phenomenon:
- Tromsø: Largely located on an island in the Municipality sharing its name, it is a decently sized city of over 77,000 inhabitants. A trip up to the Fjellheisen Mountain (translates into mountain elevator) offers a wonderful view of the city and, weather permitting, is the perfect place to watch the Norther Lights in action.
- Bodø: A short distance from Rønvikfjellit, which offers some spectacular viewing spots and a good chance of a clear view, Bodø is a moderately sized city of over 55,000 inhabitants, thus offering a good balance between things to do and access to nature.
- Kirkenes: As mentioned above, this is one of the end stops for Hurtigruten, and is blessed with an average of around 200 Aurora Borealis nights per year offering visitors plenty of chances to see the lights. That said, with a population of around 3,500 people (and about 10,000 Reindeer), nightlife is... limited.
- Lofoten: This place is frankly worth visiting in its own right for the landscape and dramatic scenery alone. That it is also a great place to view Northern Lights becomes a bit of a bonus. with long sight lines and tall mountains breaking up cloud cover, conditions are often in place for some wonderful displays of the lights.
- Svalbard: This one is for the adventurers out there as it is a bit out of the way compared to the other destinations on this list. An archipelago lying approximately half way between the Nordkapp (the northernmost part of Norway) and the North Pole, Svaldbard offers tourists a taste of arctic exploration out of (primarily) Longyearbyen (the name in and of itself an indication of how far north the place is). It is also reachable by Cruises offered via Hurtigruten for those looking to go there by sea. Needless to say, a great place for northern lights as well.
- Patience. With some luck and the weather on your side you'll get there, but there are plenty of people that have come to see the northern lights and have not gotten the opportunity, so you wouldn't be the first.
Hiking
There are a series of famous hikes in Norway that offer truly unique and spectacular views of inland lakes and Fjords. Perhaps the three most prominent of these are Preikestolen, Trolltunga and Kjeragbolten. All places with names that may seem unfamiliar to you, but which are likely to crop in any rudimentary search using keywords like Norway, Fjord, Hike etc. Though tremendously popular destinations, they are well worth the trip.
Yours truly, soaking wet and pleased about it by Låtefossen waterfall
Being mountain hikes of some length, each of these hikes represent a full day activity for which some preparation should be made. All will require appropriate clothing and good footwear and some understanding of what is referred to in Norway as fjellvettreglene, or the Norwegian Mountain Code.
Weather conditions can change rapidly in the mountains and should be taken into consideration. As you don't want to get stuck on the trail during dark, it is recommended that all these hikes are started early in the day to make the most of the daylight.
One common issue which also catches some tourists out is the general lack of toilet facilities on the trail, so be sure to make the proper... arrangement shall we say, before setting off.
Preikestolen
Towering 604m above Lysefjorden, the hike to Preikestolen (in English, the Pulpit) is eight kilometers in length and starts at the Preikestolen Fjellstue, or mountain lodge. The elevation gain is approximately 500m and a round trip takes about four hours in total. Rated as a medium difficulty trail, it is recommended that you have some prior hiking experience before embarking on this trip (and the others on this list). That said, there are regular guided tours that will be helpful to those less experienced and will greatly reduce the risk of you becoming one of the people in need of mountain rescue. It happens every year, even on short trips like this.
Photo by Samuel Killworth on Unsplash
To get there you can either drive from Stavanger, which takes about 45 minutes, or there is a bus service. From Bergen it is a bit more of a trek, being over 5 hours away by car heading south.
The hiking season for Preikestolen is from May to October. While technically possible to reach it year round, you'll need special equipment between November and April as it gets icy and far more treacherous.
Trolltunga
The spectacular end point of this hike is situated 700m over Ringdalsvatnet, which while looking a bit like a fjord in photos is actually an inland lake. This is one of those rock formations that seem absolutely impossible and which should almost not exist. That the name translates into Trolls Tounge comes as no surprise!
Photo by Benjamin Davies on Unsplash
Altogether a more challenging prospect than Preikestolen, this hike is either a 8-12 hour round trip of 27km or a 7-10 hour round trip of 20km depending on the route chosen. Deemed by tourist authorities as an expert level hike, a guide is recommended for most, though it is excellently marked.
Should you feel experienced enough to take this on without a guide, the time to do so is between June and September. From October to May it is strongly recommended that you travel with a guide only.
Getting there will be easiest by car. A three hour drive from Bergen, Trolltunga is located near Tyssedal, not to far from the town of Odda in Hardanger.
Kjeragbolten
Famed for the improbably located boulder wedged in a crevice on Kjerag mountain, this location offers one of the most iconic photo locations in Norway. Very popular among base jumpers and mountain climbers alike, this destination is the most demanding on this list and should not be undertaken without proper preparations. A 6-10 hour hike with an elevation gain of 800m it is considered demanding even for experienced hikers.
Making it to the top is however does come with quite a magnificent reward, with unbeatable views of Jysefjorden and of course the oddity that is the Kjeragbolten itself. With a drop from the rock of about 950 metres down to the fjord below, climbing out on it may not be ideal should you have a bit of vertigo. No accidents have been reported yet however.
Getting there is easiest from Stavanger, from which you can take the car ferry to Lysebotn from where you can continue either by car or taxi to Øygardsstøl.
Photo by Mario von Rotz on Unsplash
Useful Links and Resources
EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS
The Joint Rescue Coordination Center (JRCC) has the overall operational responsibility during mountain search and rescue operations.
51 51 70 00 – JRCC Southern Norway
75 55 90 00 – JRCC Northern Norway
For other emergencies:
110 – Fire
112 – Police
113 – Ambulance
120 – Emergency at sea
22 59 13 00 – Poisons Information Center
1412 TDD (textphone for the deaf or hearing impaired)
The nature is stunning!
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